When colleagues at work found out I was going to
the Faroes some assumed I was going to Egypt or some exotic South Sea
islands!! I am sure most football
followers at least, will be aware the Faroes are in fact in the North Atlantic
between the Shetlands, Iceland and Norway. A week-long trip at the start of
June allowed both international grounds to be visited for World Cup qualifiers.
I flew from Gatwick to Aberdeen with British
Airways and then from Aberdeen to Vagar (Apologies but my keyboard does not
allow all the little lines and dots that appear above and through the Faroese
alphabet) with Atlantic Airways. You can in fact now fly from Stansted with
just a short stopover in Aberdeen. As you come in round the towering island of
Mykines, past sea stacks and up a fjord it feels a bit like a Dambusters run.
An overnight stay near the airport allowed us to
sample the local beer at the Hotel Vagur, as well as the local ‘delicacy’ known
as wind dried lamb, or rancid rubber as we christened it. A helicopter flight
with breathtaking views over some of the 18 islands that make up the Faroes,
then whisked us over to Klaksvik, the 2nd largest town and centre
for the Northern islands.
Whilst in Klaksvik we visited the ground of KI
(Klaksvikar Itrotterfelag) which as with all club grounds in the Faroes has an
astroturf pitch. Up till 1986 they all played on sand or mud! KI are the joint
most successful Faroese side with 17 league titles to their name and celebrated
their centenary last year. The ground
has a sizeable stand with about 10 rows of bench seating. The only action on while we were there was
the annual teachers v. students match and a KI reserve game, all the matches in
the top two divisions being postponed due to the internationals. Each of these
games was interrupted by outstanding hospitality. One of the club coaches took us to the local newspaper offices to
get old programmes and then back to his house for coffee, cakes and photos of
his time working with Andy Irvine at Everton. Later a group of locals including
an ex-KI goalkeeper with 17-years service at the club and the only UEFA
qualified referee in the Faroes, forced us to go for drinks with them.
The Faroe Islands have had a league competition
since 1942 but their Football Association was not formed until 1979 and only in
1988 did they become members of FIFA. There are now 22 clubs, all
non-professional and the 5 league divisions include second and third teams of
the leading sides. Most clubs have just the one pitch which stage youth,
veterans and women’s matches as well as the men’s. When no games are on
children are freely allowed to use the facilities. With artificial pitches this
is not a problem.
On the Saturday it’s Faroes v. Switzerland. A ferry
and a bus take us to the Svangaskard National Stadium in Toftir. The ground was
opened in 1992 and had the first grass pitch in the islands for nearly 80
years. In view of the extremely changeable weather in these parts the fact that
there is practically no cover is a little surprising. Just a small section for VIP’s and press on the upper level of
the central clubhouse / changing room block is the only area protected from the
elements. The remainder of the ground has steeply banked seating, about 20 rows
along the sides and 5 or 6 at the ends, giving a total capacity of about 5,000.
Unlike most internationals, standing to the rear of the seating areas is
allowed and the scenic views around the ground are amazing.
The Faroes give a fine account of themselves in
the match, coming from 1-0 down to level with 20 minutes left. The Swiss are
quickly ahead again, but only a fine save denies the home side a second
equaliser. A further goal from Alexander Frei sees the Swiss victorious 3-1 in
the end. Most of the Faroes’ side are home-based but 4 play in Denmark, 1 in
Iceland and 1, Claus-Bech Jorgenson, at Coventry City. Many of the Klaksvik
supporters boycott the game because their star striker is omitted from the
squad. Tottenham’s Reto Ziegler is in the Switzerland side.
The ground of Toftir’s club side B 68, is
immediately next to the Svangaskard. This is at the centre of a running track
and has open bench seating built into the bank all along the near side.
The following day we called in at the ground of IF
(Itrotterfelag Fuglafjordur) and watched the second half of their reserve game
which is of a surprisingly good standard. The ground is set on a plateau above
the town. Most people watch from the road some 40 metres or so above pitch
level although there is a narrow area of hard-standing some 10 metres above the
pitch. With sea and mountainous slopes beyond it is certainly a ground with a
view.
The final football action of the trip takes place
in the capital Torshavn where approximately 40% of the total population of the
islands live. There are three grounds at the sports complex: an astroturf pitch
used for training and reserve matches, the Gundadalur Stadium with astroturf
pitch, used by Torshavn’s three club sides, HB, B 36 and Fram and the Faroes’
second national ground the Torsvollur Stadium, with grass pitch.
The Torsvollur is three-sided with uncovered
seating on each side and a total capacity of 6,000. The weather restricts the
crowd to about 4,500. A large number of Irish fail to appear as the airport is
closed all day. Two planes actually depart Dublin but are forced to divert to
Bergen in Norway! The Irish gain a comfortable if unspectacular victory through
a dubious penalty converted by Ian Harte and a wickedly deflected Kevin Kilbane
shot.
Aside from the pitch, the next door Gundadlur
Stadium is the more impressive, having three covered stands. The two main club
sides, HB (17 times league champions and 25 times cup winners) and B 36 (7
league titles and 3 cup wins) each have their own almost identical stands with
clubhouses to the rear, on one side. A modern all-seated stand runs pitch
length on the opposite side. Prior to tonight’s match we visit the clubhouses
of HB, B 36 and Fram, obtaining programmes from each. While waiting
accidentally find ourselves in the sponsors lounge being plied with free food
and drink. The Chairman of the Faroyar Bank, who are the main sponsors,
introduces himself to us and does not seem at all concerned about our presence
there.
The craik before the game with the Faroes and
Irish sharing their passions for drinking and singing was most enjoyable and
overall it was an excellent trip. Off to get some kip now. It’s very difficult
to sleep when it never gets dark!!