January this year provided a fine opportunity to escape the cold and miserable British weather in order to attend the AFC Asian Cup tournament in Qatar. The trip was given added interest when Qatar was announced as host nation for the 2022 World Cup.

Excellent flights with Emirates, from Gatwick via Dubai to Doha. Catering includes a morning snack, 4-course lunch with wine, and afternoon tea and the entertainment console allows a massive choice of films, TV programmes, music and games. You can even send e-mails or get a pilot’s eye view on take-off and landing, via cameras mounted at the front of the aircraft.

Arrive in Doha in the late evening, purchase our visas for £18 and get free transport to our Hotel, the Al Ghazal, to the west of the city centre. Spacious rooms, more like suites, but some of the facilities are either in short supply or non-operational. The breakfast, served on a tray in the room, is fairly basic and usually lacking in at least one of the main items.

Qatar is one of the emirates, located on a small peninsula on the coast of the much larger Arabian peninsula. Bordered by Saudi Arabia and the Persian Gulf, with the island of Bahrain not far away. It is only about half the size of Wales and out of a total population of around 1.5 million, barely 200,000 are native Qatari’s the rest being ex-pat workers from about 100 different countries. The abundance of oil and gas help the nation achieve one of the highest GDP’s per capita in the world.

The Al-Thani family have ruled this monarchy since the mid-19^th century, with the current emir in charge from 1995. Qatar was a British Protectorate between 1916 and 1971, but is now a fully independent state. Islam is the main religion, 78% of the population being Muslim. The climate is mild to warm and generally dry in winter, unbearably hot in summer.

The capital city, Doha, is to be found in a shallow bay about half-way up the east coast of the Qatar peninsula. 80% of the total population live in Doha and its suburbs. The city was founded as Al-Bida (big tree) in 1825. Satellite TV station, Al Jazeera is based here and today there is an enormous amount of construction taking place with the new gradually dominating the old.  This trend is likely to increase as the World Cup finals get nearer.

On our first morning, leave our immediate area of furniture shops and barbers and walk to the nearest Mall where we pick up our pre-ordered match tickets for all 9 games that we intend to see. This process is completed very smoothly in contrast to some earlier arrivals that encountered difficulties. Pay the equivalent of £7 in Riyals or QAR’s for each game. Take a look at two nearby grounds not being used for this tournament, at the Al Ahli and Al Arabi Sports Clubs.

The Asian Football Confederation’s Asian Cup tournament started in 1956 in Hong Kong and has been held every 4 years since. The Korean Republic dominated in the early competitions. Iran then won it 3 times in a row from 1968 to 1976. Arab states were the major force in the 80’s with Saudi Arabia gaining 3 successes. Japan then won 3 of the next 4 tournaments before war-torn Iraq were surprise victors in 2007.

16 teams are divided into 4 groups with quarter-finals onwards on a knock-out basis. We get to see all of the competing nations play their second group match with 2 matches played on each day kicking-off at 4.15 and 7.15.  As for programmes, a large brochure is produced, covering the whole tournament.

Traffic congestion causes the occasional worry, but the plentiful and cheap taxis ensure that we complete our proposed schedule without too much hassle. As petrol costs about 14 pence per litre fuel economy is not really an issue. Those with 4x4’s avoid the queues by driving across the scrubland or desert between intersections.

5 grounds are being used and the tournament starts for us at the Al-Gharrafa, or Thasi Bin Jasim Stadium for Kuwait v Uzbekistan. This 25,000 capacity venue is smart and modern. Built in 2003 it consists of 2 tiers of continuous seating in a bowl shape, with only the upper tier on one side, including the VIP and large press areas, under cover. Catering facilities are good and reasonably priced with varying selections available at each outlet.

A pretty good game sees the former Soviets triumph 2-1, a fine strike from Sylvan Djeparov sealing victory and having previously defeated the hosts, qualification for the quarter-finals. The crowd is fairly sparse, 3,481 with Kuwaitis far outnumbering the small group of Uzbeks. Entertainment during breaks in play is provided by the remote controlled TV camera suspended by wires mounted on each of the floodlight pylons. 

A half-hour taxi ride takes us to game two at the 50,000 capacity Khalifa (Hamad Bin Khalifa, or Al Ahly) Stadium. Opened in 1976, but fully renovated and expanded prior to the Asian Games in 2006, it now serves as the national football stadium and was where England played Brazil in 2009. It’s once again an oval shaped ground with continuous seating all round, but the centre of the principal side is higher and there is a crescent shaped second tier opposite. An arched roof comprising curved canvas panels covers the main stand and a second arch not unlike Wembley’s traverses the centre of the ground. It’s an interesting design and a fine stadium. There is plenty of colour too, the seats are in the national shades of purple and white, pink banners and flags with the Asian Cup logo adorn the stands and the athletics track is covered with a green canvas type material. The ‘Khalifa’ is the only ground that currently meets the standard required for the 2022 World Cup.

Football was first played in Qatar during it’s early days as a British Protectorate but only really spread after they joined FIFA and gained independence in 1970-71. Experienced foreign coaches and state subsidies have aided growth and there is now a major youth development programme in place. The Qatari League has a 12-team top division and one of the leading sides, Doha Red Feet, are managed by former Everton player, Roger Kenyon.

The hosts take on China in a must-win game, watched by a reasonable crowd of 30,778. The locals are mostly in traditional Arabic dress and headwear but there are quite a few Chinese supporters as well. Qatar, coached by Frenchman Bruno Metsu, who had been in charge of Senegal at the World Cup, perform well. Two goals by Yusef Ahmed, the first a cracker, settle the match, against a Chinese side with little to offer up front.

The first game on the following day is about 15 miles out of town at Al-Rayyan. The Al-Rayyan (Ahmed Bin Ali) Stadium is the only ground being used that is not in Doha itself. The ground is almost identical to the Al-Gharrafa and is shared by club sides Al-Khantiyat and Al-Rayyan. Security measures vary enormously from ground to ground and from day to day. Any bags are supposed to go through an airport type scanner upon entry to the ground but this does not always happen. Lighters are sometimes confiscated, at other times allowed. Jordan play Qatar’s neighbours Saudi Arabia and a large number of the 17,349 crowd are Saudi’s. In a fairly poor game, Jordan score the only goal from a cross come shot and Saudi only liven up in the last 10 minutes by which time its too late.

Back to Doha for the second game of the day and our tightest match time-wise, but the cab driver copes well with the heavy traffic and we are in our seats (well someone else’s seats as the Syrians are in ours) a good 5 minutes prior to kick-off at the Qatar Sports Club Stadium. Close to the corniche, north-west of the city centre, the ground is once again an oval shaped bowl. 20,000 capacity with a single tier of continuous seats round an athletics track that had recently staged the Qatar Super Grand Prix event. The tall floodlight pylons in the corners each have 176 lamps (yes, someone, not me, was sad enough to count them). 3 club sides, Le Khwiya and Al-Sarliya, as well as Qatar Sports Club are based here.

Japan, coached by experienced Italian, Alberto Zaccheroni, take on Syria who have some fervent support among the 10,453 crowd. Japan generally have the edge and take the lead, before a dramatic last quarter of an hour in which both sides score from controversial penalties and have a player dismissed. CSKA Moscow’s Keisuko Honda nets the winning spot kick for Japan, who bolstered by the experience of 5 German Bundesliga players see out time for a 2-1 victory.

Join some of the other English travellers for a meal at Applebees, a chain restaurant in the City Mall and the next morning, have a pleasant stroll along the seafront corniche.

The first match of the day, brings two of the tournament favourites and the only sides with English based players together. Australia take on South Korea at Al Gharrafa. Australia field Mark Schwarzer, Tim Cahill, Harry Kewell, Lucas Neill, Brett Emerton and Luke Wilkshire. South Korea have Lee Chung Yong, Park Ji-Sung and Lee Young Pyo. The ‘Socceroos’ are competing in only their second Asian Cup, having previously been a member of the Oceanian Confederation. We are very restrained in not mentioning the recent Ashes cricket series (too much). The match is decent with not much between the sides. The Japanese show more flair and the Aussies are at times a bit laboured with Kewell and Cahill playing up front, perhaps better suited to deeper roles. A 1-1 draw results with 15,526 in attendance.

Next we pay our initial visit to the last of the 5 grounds, the Al-Sadd, or Jasim Bin Hamed Stadium. The smallest of the stadia, only 15,000 capacity and located just south of the city centre. Built in 1974, but renovated for the Gulf Cup in 2004 and again last year, it is used by the reigning club champions, Al-Sadd and was once the national stadium. Much more like an English style ground, rectangular in shape and all covered. Three sides have a continuous roof and single tier of seats, which are very luxurious and comfortable. The main side has 2 small tiers with the roof stepping down, decorative lit towers adorn the corners and there are pleasant concourses below each stand providing refreshments, toilets and even prayer rooms. The stadium is also supposed to be air conditioned but that facility is not required at this time of year.

On paper, Bahrain v India is one of the least attractive games, but it turns out to be hugely entertaining. India, where football is not exactly a major sport, are coached by Bob Houghton, an Englishman with 40 years experience although only at Maidstone, Hastings and Bristol City in the UK. Both sets of supporters in the 11,032 crowd are wildly enthusiastic and noisy. The Indians cheer every tackle, corner and throw-in as if it were a goal and Bahrain’s followers are led by a lively band. India perform quite well up front but have a pretty dreadful defence and the Arabic side triumph 5-2 in the end, Ismael Abdulatif scoring 4 of them.

Considered having a drink after the game, but a couple of our party do not have their passports which are required to gain entry. The only bars are attached to hotels, not open until 7pm and pricey, so we are not missing too much.

Onto Saturday and two more games, both re-visits ground-wise but a chance to see the 4 teams we have not yet witnessed in what might be described as the ‘group of death’. Iran take on North Korea at the Qatar Sports Club. The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, as they are billed, have about 75% of their 2010 World Cup squad despite the public humiliation they received following their return from that tournament. Iran had beaten their close rivals and Asian Cup holders Iraq 2-1 in their opening game and defeat the Koreans 1-0 in a poor match. The best entertainment is provided by the Korean supporters, dressed almost identically, waving small national flags and singing and chanting when asked to by a choreographer who stands at the front and has an instruction manual to refer to.

Iraq then play United Arab emirates at Al Rayyan. The match remains scoreless until the 94^th minute when Iraq scramble a winner, but the game is pretty good with plenty of attacking from both sides, each hitting the woodwork twice.

Indulge in a spot of tourism on the following morning, at the Museum of Islamic Art, and ‘souq waqif’ market area, where a maze of alleyways offers spices, nuts, perfumes, jewellery, clothing and live birds, including multi-coloured chicks. Have a relaxing puff on a strawberry flavoured shisha pipe before heading to the Aspire Zone where we see the large tower known as The Torch and take a look at the under impressive and very quiet ‘Fan Zone’ for the tournament.

It is our last day and sees the final round of group matches get under way with games kicking off at the same time. We attend Qatar’s match with Kuwait, the hosts progressing after a convincing 3-0 win at the Khalifa Stadium. The attendance is perhaps surprisingly low at 28,339. We then adjourn for a meal at the Venetian themed Villaggio Mall.

Enjoy the delights of Dubai’s duty free shopping and a couple of Pixar films on the way home the following day. In conclusion, Qatar have their work cut out to organise a successful World Cup and there is probably not enough to tempt me to return, but a very enjoyable trip nonetheless and for the record Japan go on to defeat Australia 1-0 after extra time in the final.

contributed on 14/07/11