DJ’S JOTTINGS – NUMBER 23 (Northern Germany)

 

 

 

Matchday images (3) >view 1> and >view 2> 

 

A mini-weekend break via Ryanair’s Hamburg-Lubeck outpost provided the chance to visit two of the big German grounds towards the North of the country. The airport is fairly close to Lubeck but quite a way from Hamburg. In any event, we decided a hire car was required to cover the 180km to our first port of call.

 

Bremen is a large city with a history steeped in trading and the Hanseatic League (Was that the forerunner of the Bundesliga?). It was one of the major Baltic ports and a main stopping off point en route to the Soviet Empire. Nowadays it is known for brewing, particularly Becks, the German space programme and a number of other high-tech. Industries. The old town is quite scenic with a cobbled square, 600-year old Rathaus with riotously decorated façade and River Weser. The Alte Keller Bar provides some well needed refreshment before a combination of tram and shanks’s pony takes us to the home ground of SV Werder Bremen.

 

The 42,466 capacity Weser Stadion is located right by the river, south east of the city centre and has been Werder’s home for over 100 years. In the early days it was a general sports field, with major re-developments taking place for the Nazi political rallies in the 1930’s and for football purposes in the 1970’s and within the last few years. It is a distinctive oval shaped stadium with 2 continuous tiers, all covered bar the front few rows of the lower tier. For internationals and European games the ground has an all-seated capacity of 35,000, but for domestic games the seats in the lower tier at one end fold up to allow a standing terrace. Unique, impressive floodlight pylons rise out of the stand roofs. Entrance is 35 Euros (£25 at the time !!) and a large glossy programme is available for 1.5 Euros.

 

Werder were formed in 1899 but gained no honours until tasting victory in the German Cup in 1961. They were admitted to the Bundesliga for its second season, 1963-64 and immediately won the title. A period of decline led to relegation in 1980, but they soon bounced back with Championships in 1988 and 1993, Cup wins in 1994 and 1996 and the European Cup-Winners Cup in 1992. In 2004 they achieved the league and cup double and at the time of our visit were 2nd in the table to Bayern Munich.

 

Per Mertesacker, Hugo Almeida and Ivan Klasnic are in the Bremen line-up. The visitors, lowly Nurnberg, have big Czech Jan Koller up front but are reduced to 10 men after just 20 minutes following a sending off. Werder are well in control from that point and run out 2-0 winners, watched by 37,073.

 

Stop overnight in Hamburg, Germany’s richest city, mainly through technology based industries such as Siemens. Historically it was an important seaport, although located some way down the River Elbe and also had a part to play in the early development of The Beatles through their gigs at the Star Club. Our night on the town includes food and drink at Paulaner Miraculum, a Bavarian themed restaurant where you can eat almost a whole pig should you wish to, a stroll through the slightly seedy St Pauli area and a rock karaoke at Ballroom. This is better than it may sound, as they have a live backing band for the various volunteers to sing along to and many of the singers are pretty good, at least until about 3am by which time the alcohol has taken effect.

 

After a late night, have an early start on the Sunday with a 10.45 kick off in the Landesliga – Hamburg, which is the 5th level in the German pyramid.

 

SC Condor play at the Sport Centrum Berner Heerweg in the suburb of Farmsen, north-east of the centre, easily accessible by U-bahn from the hauptbahnhof (central station). The ground is nothing to write home about, but I will anyway. It is principally a 3,000 capacity athletics venue with a pitch in the middle and no seats or cover. There are a few steps of terracing along the near side with food and drink outlets and changing block to the rear. Admission is 5 Euros and there are free programmes. The pitch is fairly well frozen and in England the game would probably have been called off, but they are made of sterner stuff on much of the continent, so just get on with it.

 

Condor are in mid-table and today take on clear leaders SC Victoria, who thrashed Condor 7-0 earlier in the season. Victoria have plenty of the play but Condor cause a major upset by winning 3-0, the impressive Calvis Riebe netting a hat trick. Victoria have one sent off for dissent and to add injury to insult, have another taken away by ambulance after a nasty, but accidental kick in the face.

 

Back into the centre for lunchtime sustenance at Brauhaus Joh. Albrecht before we catch the S-bahn to Solingen for our main match.

 

From the station, a 20-minute stroll through woodland leads to the HSH Nordbank Arena, formerly known as the Volksparkstadion. Whatever its current name, it is a very impressive 57,000 capacity UEFA 5-star ground. HSV played at the Rothenbaum Stadion in the city centre from their formation in 1919 up to 1953 when they moved to the Volkspark. It has staged many important games, including the last ever meeting of East and West Germany at the 1974 World Cup, Holland’s victory over West Germany in the semi-final at Euro 88 and 5 matches at the 2006 World Cup.

 

The most recent re-development of the ground was completed in 2000. All four stands were demolished and re-built and the pitch was rotated 90 degrees. There are three steeply raked tiers on each side, all close to the pitch and under a suspended canvas style roof. As with Bremen it can be all-seated, with a capacity of 45,500, or part terraced with the seats in the lower tier of the North stand folding away. Pay 26 Euros for a seat near the back and the A5 programme costs 1 Euro. This contains over 100 pages and also covers their forthcoming Uefa Cup match.

 

Germany’s first dedicated football club, SC Germania Hamburg, were formed in 1887. They and two other sides merged to form the current club after World War I. Championships soon followed in 1923 and 1928, although the next one was not until 1960 with Uwe Seeler leading the forward line. The 70’s saw their best period with ‘Mighty Mouse’ Kevin Keegan to the fore and in 1983 they won the European Cup.

 

5th at the time of our visit they moved up to 3rd after a comfortable 3-0 victory over mid-table VFL Bochum, watched by 50,069 spectators. East European strikers Jiri Jarolim, with two, and Ivica Olic, get the goals. 

Drive to Lubeck, famous for its marzipan, where we stay for the Sunday night, conveniently placed for our early Monday flight home. Have a quick look at the picturesque town centre but it is very quiet so settle for a couple of beers and a snack before an early’ish night. Lubeck also has a football team in the Regionalliga Nord (3rd level) and Holstein Kiel are not far away, so a return visit is most likely.

contributed on 31/12/09