DJ'S JOTTINGS - NO. 19 - PARIS

 

In November I at last got round to using the service of Eurostar for the first time. It was the final weekend before the transfer from Waterloo to St Pancras, but as I was boarding at Ashford it did not really make any difference. Smart efficient service without the usual queues associated with Britain’s main airports and just 2 hours to Paris Gare Du Nord. The public transport system in Paris is excellent (as long as they are not on strike) and a three day pass covering use of metro, buses and local trains is very good value. Check in at the Hotel Du Paris before we head off for a sporting treble.

 

 

View matchday images  01 02

 

Having spotted numerous brightly clad folk on the train we learn that Harlequins are playing Stade Francais in the European rugby-union Cup and with a 2.35pm kick-off we have time to attend before the opening round ball match. The Stade Jean Bouin is a 12,000 capacity venue located south-west of the city centre, immediately next door to the Parc des Princes. The Roland Garros tennis centre and a racecourse are also close by. The rugby ground has seated stands down the sides although legroom is at a premium. Open seating curves round the athletics track at one end with just flat hard standing at the other end.

 

The game is a sell-out so end up paying slightly over the odds to a tout, but the atmosphere and match itself make it worthwhile. It’s certainly a bright occasion with Stade Francais supporters wearing lurid pink alongside the multi-coloured Harlequins. The French team’s strip is a mud brown colour decorated with pink floral motifs. Nice !! I could imagine a similar result if Jean-Paul Gaultier re-designed the Dulwich Hamlet shirts.

 

Stade Francais race into an early lead and it’s 17-3 at half time. ‘Quins threaten a comeback at 17-10 but the French soak up the pressure and counter attack well, triumphing 37-17 in the end.

 

 

View matchday images  01 02

 

Make a hasty exit in order to get to the City University area south of the city centre and the Stade Charlety, the fairly new home for Paris FC. The ground is a modern concrete bowl seemingly designed principally for athletics. There is a continuous single tier of covered seating all round, sweeping up to two or three tiers at the centre on the sides. Capacity is estimated at 20,000, but for today’s French League National Division (level 3) match with Vanne, the attendance of 634 is somewhat lost. Only one side is opened with 8 euros (£5.70) admission charged and free programmes given out.

 

A very enjoyable game takes place. In the opening twenty-two minutes league leaders Vanne twice go in front, Paris swiftly equalising on each occasion. After the interval the home side take control and fully deserve their 4-2 success.

 

Take travel advice from the guy who runs the Paris FC club shop for the return journey to Parc des Princes, although the accident that shuts down the tram system for a while is a concern and we only make the game with about 5 minutes to spare. The shimmering lights of the Eiffel Tower in the distance illuminate the walk from the tram stop.

 

 

View matchday images  01 02

 

It was in Paris that football first took root in France, amateur clubs from the capital winning the first six post World War I cup competitions. Racing Club were the first big team but they folded in the 60’s. Stade Francais (as a soccer club) also went the same way, while Red Star and Paris FC descended to the lower divisions. Only in the last twenty years have Paris St Germain become a major club, thanks initially to heavy financial backing from Canal Plus.

 

The Parc des Princes was the main international stadium for the French football and rugby sides until the Stade de France opened in 1998. It was opened in 1897, initially as a velodrome and was the finishing point for the Tour de France cycle race until 1967. The name stems from before the French Revolution when the area was a pleasure ground for royalty.

 

Football has been staged there since 1932 when Racing Club moved in and it has been home to PSG from 1973. The first European Cup final in 1956 was played there and it has been used as a venue during the European Championship finals in 1984, the World Cup finals of 1998 and for the recent rugby World Cup.

 

48,527 spectators can be accommodated, all seated and all covered. There are two continuous tiers all round with the upper tiers rising up at the centre of each side and each end. All of the stands curve slightly outwards, possibly following the line of the old cycle track.

 

PSG were formed as a merger of Football Club Paris and St Germain-en-Laye in 1970. They had some success in the 80’s and 90’s winning two league championships and six French Cups. They reached semi-finals in each of the three European club competitions between 1993 and 1995, then appeared in consecutive Cup Winners Cup Finals, taking the trophy in 1996. Apart from a Coupe de France success in 2006 they have struggled over the last few seasons and at the time of our visit were in the bottom half of the table not too far above the relegation positions. Paul Le Guen’s days as manager may be numbered. Visitors Nancy usually struggle themselves but were lying in 2nd place. 40 euros is charged for entry and free programmes are laid out under every seat. Hard core home support in both ends of the ground helps generate a lively atmosphere in a crowd of 36,500 but cannot inspire the home team to victory. The game is somewhat disappointing and ends scoreless. Nancy have a few good chances but PSG have a good spell of pressure too and hit the bar.

 

After the game we also hit the bar. The Frog and Princess is a very busy studenty brewpub offering beers such as ‘Inseine’, ‘Parislytic’ and ’Darke de Triomphe’. Come the morning and at breakfast the hotel puts the ‘petit’ in ‘petit dejeuner’. Spend the Sunday morning visiting many of the city’s best known sights, including the Arc de Triomphe, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral and Pompidou Centre.

 

View matchday image - Enlarge

 

Our football for today is at quite a low level (level 7 I think ?) and sees Paris FC 2 (reserves in other words) take on Champigny. The ground however, is the Stade Dejerine that was home to Paris FC’s first team until recently. Located in the Porte Montreuil area to the east of the city centre, it is a homely slightly shambolic venue with an estimated capacity of about 5,000, stands containing 5 rows of covered seating down the sides and a couple of steps of terracing at the near end. Security fencing surrounds the pitch and there are newish looking floodlight pylons in each corner.

 

No admission is charged and there is no evidence of any paperwork, but a decent game. Paris ‘stiffs’ dominated and should have won by a larger margin than the 2-1 victory that they do achieve.

 

Evening in the Latin Quarter, near the Sorbonne (famed for its student riots) but we settle for beer and Premiership football on TV at ‘Le Bombardier’ followed by a fine meal at ‘Gaudeamus’.

 

Complete our trip on the Monday with time to visit Montmartre and ‘Sacre Coeur’ before our lunchtime train home.

contributed on 07/02/08