DJ'S JOTTINGS - NUMBER 18 (GOTHENBURG)

 

Back in September 2007 a three day trip to Sweden's second city was undertaken. Flying with Ryanair from Stansted to Gothenburg's Cit Airport it is only a 25-minute bus ride into the centre. Our base, the Quality Hotel Panorama is about a mile south of the centre.

 

Gothenburg is located on the west coast of Sweden. It has an historic centre surrounded by a moat and harbour. Canals give it a Venetian flavour while its pavement bars, parks and a laid back atmosphere add to the general ambience. At one point a few hundred years ago the Swedes had to buy the city back from Denmark. Many of the bars, such as ‘The Golden Days’ and ‘The Bishop’s Arms’ not only have English names, but are also styled on a British pub and serve British beers on draught. We insist on sampling the local brews however, even if they are a bit pricey.

 

Gothenburg was the first place in Sweden to take up football in the late 19th century and at a time when it was the industrial centre of the country. The city held a grip on the game that did not begin to weaken until after World War II. Since 1980 IFK have emerged as a major force. Apart from domestic league and cup honours they twice won the UEFA Cup and were semi-finalists in the European Cup. The first UEFA success came with a certain Sven Goran Eriksson as coach. 

 

 

View matchday images  01 02 03

 

Our first football action of the trip sees IFK Gothenburg take on Elfsborg in the Allsvenskan (premier league) at 4pm on the Saturday. The game is staged at the city’s largest ground, the 43,200 capacity ‘Nya Ullevi’. The 3 main Gothenburg clubs, IFK, Orgryte and GAIS all played, until very recently, at the 16,500 capacity Gamla Ullevi. Only internationals, big European games and local derbies were staged at the big ground immediately next door. However, the old ground has now been demolished and an even newer ullevi is being constructed in its place and due to be ready for next year when all three clubs are due to return. In the meantime Orgryte are using the old Valhalla ground while the other two sides play at Nya Ullevi.

 

The stadium was originally built for the 1958 World Cup finals, hosted matches at Euro 92 and staged the 2004 UEFA Cup final. From some angles outside the ground looks like a large boat with the side stands sweeping up steeply at the centre. It is all covered and was all seated, but some seats have been removed to allow standing for Swedish league games. The main stand has 3 tiers and VIP boxes with 2 tiers round the remainder. The ends are quite low and well back from the pitch due to the 9-lane running track and other athletics facilities.

 

The league is interestingly poised with just 3 points separating the top 6 clubs. Both IFK and Elfsborg are in that leading group. The home team, including Niclas Alexandersson (ex Everton) take an early 2-0 lead but Elfsborg come back and end up with a point thanks to a dubious penalty. Admission costs about £11 and free programmes are handed out.

 

Visit several bars in the evening, including ‘Delirium’ that has an amazing range of over 2,000 beers from all around the world. The following morning catch a train from Gothenburg’s ornate central railway station, down the coast to Halmstad.

 

The main sporting event seems to be the Solheim Cup women’s golf between Europe and the USA. We however opt for the Swedish allsvenskan football match between Halmstads BK and AIK Solna.

 

 

View matchday images  01 02

 

The 15,500 capacity Orjans Vall is a very pleasant ground indeed. Entrance through the turnstiles leads to a driveway bordered by trees and grass banks and reminds me of Aldershot Town. Refreshment huts and souvenir stalls are dotted about along the sides and on the grass banks. A seated stand runs all the way along one side of the ground with a further elevated seated stand covering about two thirds of the opposite side. Blocks of temporary looking terracing consisting of wooden slats laid on a metal scaffold type structure are located to either end of the stand on this side and a proper concrete terrace runs full pitch length along the front. Further blocks of ‘temporary’ terracing are situated at each end of the ground. Entrance is the equivalent of £9.20 with programmes available at £1.50.

 

Both Halmstads and AIK are in the cluster of 6 clubs vying for the title and an excellent game produces another 2-2 draw. The visitors from Stockholm make the better start. Halmstads come back well and take a 2-1 lead but a flying header from a great cross to the far post gains a deserved point for AIK.

 

After a meal of Swedish meatballs served with loganberries, gherkins and mashed potatoes head back to Gothenburg where being a Sunday night it is fairly quiet. Settle for a drink in the hotel served by a knowledgeable barmaid who did part of her training at Fullers Brewery in London.

 

Spend the Monday before our evening return flight touring the sights, including the Paddan tour, on a very low open topped barge type vessel. We soon see why it is so low as to get from the canal out to the harbour the boat goes under a bridge where there is only a couple of inches to spare and all passengers have to leave their seats and literally hit the deck ! In the afternoon take a tram to Saltholmen and catch a ferry for a short trip to Styrso, one of the islands that form Gothenburg’s southern archipelago. A very pleasant and relaxing way to end an excellent trip.