DJ’S JOTTINGS – NUMBER 15 (Latvia)

 

The Baltic state of Latvia was part of the Soviet Union until gaining independence in 1991. Bordered by Russia, Estonia, Belarus and Lithuania as well as the Baltic Sea, Latvia became part of the EU in 2004. The majority of the 2.3 million population are Protestant Lutheran.

 

Although ice hockey and basketball are the main spectator sports, I saw this as no reason for missing out on a football trip to the capital, Riga. Travelling with BA from Gatwick the main airport is 10km from the city centre. A bus into town costs the equivalent of 25p in the local currency of Lats and Santini, there being 100 Santini to the Lat and a Lat at the time being roughly equivalent to £1. There is a good tram service in Riga, almost any journey costing 20p, with tickets sold by conductors on board. Accommodation is at the Jurnieks Hotel in a quiet residential area.

 

The first Latvian football team was called British FC, later renamed Britannia FC. Not surprisingly they were formed by Brits. The early league championships were played entirely in Riga and the capital still dominated once a national league commenced in 1922. Daugava Riga even had a brief spell playing in the Soviet league. The Latvian league plays through the summer and now has a top division of 8 teams and a 16-team second tier that includes a number of reserve sides.

 

 

 

Our first game is in the pirma liga (second level) and sees FK Olimps Riga take on Valmiera. The Daugava Stadium has a capacity of just over 5,000 and is also used by fellow Riga sides Multibanka and Jurmala II. The pitch is at the centre of an athletics track enclosed by a concrete wall. There is a single 2-tier uncovered stand running beyond pitch length on the near side. Giant floodlight pylons dominate each corner of the ground and there is a large rusting electronic scoreboard with typical communist era tower block behind, at one end.

 

Olimpija Riga, to give them their full title, won the Latvian Cup in 1994 but following relegation last season were now looking to make an immediate return to the top flight. That looked pretty likely as at the time they had won 22 and drawn 2 of their 25 league matches. Another win today is comfortably achieved in the end, by 3-1, although Valmiera have an ‘over-the-line-goal’ disallowed at 0-0. The estimated attendance of 28 includes 5 English travellers and even with such a small turn out there is a little crowd trouble, two guys coming to blows over Valmiera’s disallowed goal. No entrance fee is charged, nor is there a programme.

 

There are some nice old buildings and cobbled streets to explore, with the art-deco style of architecture much in evidence. The Museum of the Occupation and the Blackhead’s House are particularly worth a look. The giant log cabin that is the Lido recreation centre, although a little way out of the centre, has superb food and drink. Approximately 500 different dishes and beer from its own brewery are available with a restaurant, bistro and beer cellar on its 3 floors.

 

 

 

Game two is at the national stadium, used by the main club side Skonto, today playing against FK Riiga. Skonto won the championship 11 years running from 1991. FK Riga won 8 titles pre-war but have not been so successful since. At the same time Skonto were only 3rd, FK second .

 

The 8,207 capacity Skonto stadium is the largest ground in the country so an estimated attendance of 215 does not generate too much atmospere. There are covered seated stands on the two sides, continuing round the corner at one end up to the large barrel roofed Skonto Halle that stages ice hockey and basketball as well as containing the football changing rooms. The far end is closed off today but has retractable seats that can be pulled out when required. £1.50 is charged for admission with an A4 sheet folded into three as a programme, available for 10p.

 

The visitors have about 10 vociferous supporters who proudly display a Northampton Town flag, presumably because they share the same colours. Not a classic game but the lowly FK Riga deservedly come back to gain a point from a 1-1 draw.

 

Not a great trip from a footballing point of view but a very interesting unspoilt city and not too expensive either.